I had a scheduling question and am curious what other folks do. I have heard this exact topic discussed on a couple of podcasts so I know it is not unique. So…I am currently doing the climb 5.12 boulders only proven plan, previously I did the just climb more boulders plan. I typically climb indoors 2-3 days a week on home wall or gym. About 3 days per month, typically a Sunday (but sometimes a Saturday) I get to the Gunks and trad climb. On my non climbing days I usually do some kind of 45 min cardio session and I mix in some pushups/supplementary exercises.
I find my biggest weakness is endurance, and in the plan I am in, it orients to that, with ideally 2 endurance workouts per week. These recommend a day of rest afterwards. Often times after climbing outdoors for a whole day and driving I am kind of wiped the next day so I like to take a rest. I also like to rest the day before I climb outdoors. I think that is a good idea.
So, if I have climbed on a Sunday, I’d think the best suggestion is rest Monday (cardio), a power/strength workout Tuesday, Endurance Wednesday, rest Thursday (cardio), Endurance Friday, rest Saturday, climb outdoors Sunday.
If the days outdoors switch from Sunday to Saturday it might get a little tight and if I can only do 2 workouts that week, I mean, thats ok. And I realize this is kind of keeping my outdoor day as a “performance day” not a training day, which may not really be entirely accurate, but I certainly don’t do the volume outdoors in a day I do indoors in 2 hours.
So, any input from folks or other weekend (one day) warriors? Maybe I am overthinking it, perhaps do one of each of the workouts per week and if I can fit in a 3rd with adequate rest do it. Climb a weekend day and it is what it is.
I guess part of this comes down to prioritising, or how you percieve your “phase”. Anecdotally i used to find it hard to train hard indoors and perform outside. Especially when it was only one day a week.
I now plan what i do outside around my training. This isnt always possible and some rock hits me harder because its less like the climbing i do in the gym.
Not saying dont go outdoors, but see how much your doing when you are.
Consider what your outdoor day look like?
Could you train on rock?
Again one climbers anecdote, i find some training works well on rock anf others don’t. Again this depends on what the crags are like.
For example its hard to do laps if the style is hard roof cruxes surrounded by super easy slab climbing.
But if you have a nice bouldering crag with a nice flat wall and many routes, then 4x4 intervals could work well.
And then theres pacing i challanged myself recently to climb outside more like i climb inside.
Faster snappier and with more intent, its helped a lot. But i also get less fatiqued because im not climbing slow a laboured and locking super hard.
Bit of an overload of thoughts, but ultimately consider what is more imoirtant, training or performing one day a week. Its hard to chase both.
I like your idea of getting a specific amount of rest days before and after specific sessions. If these numbers are ideal for you (by experimentation), I would try to keep them and not overthink the rest too much.
Additionnaly, I think you can be fexible with your programming, meaning that you do not have to try to fit your sessions in the limiting window of a week, but maybe rather come up with 8-10 days for example. so instead of planning 2 endurance sessions a week, it could also be 3 sesions in 10/11 days.
If going outdoor is your top 1 priority (which is also mine in season), also make it a priority in programming, meaning, by short term adaption of the plan, so the outdoor session fit with appropriate rest If endurance training is your 2nd priority, get the sessions in as they fit around the outdoors. You might be off season again in some time, and can push more energy and time in those sessions.
thanks for the feedback, that is really something I had not thought of, to think in 8-10 day increments instead of 7. and yes, outdoor sends are really my priority, that is the whole point for me. I have begun to appreciate the gym as a goal unto itself, but still, outdoors is the main goal.
thanks, I think I’ve been doing good, twice a week on home wall and hangboard I work strength and power, once a week I get to the gym where I do workouts from the power company book just climb more routes. I am seeing results in what I am able to onsite in the gym so it seems to be working so far. We will know more when it warms up outside.