Bad Feet are Good for Your Climbing

In my opinion, the biggest missing component from home walls and most boards (not to mention gyms in general) is BAD FEET.

We designed out line of feet specifically for home wall owners. Let me know if you have questions!

We designed several different feet with different things in mind.

Inductors: Tiny directional scoops and knobs that require precision and force you to use foot positions you don’t often find indoors. These are separated into angle sets. 10 degrees, 20 degrees, 45 and 60. They will be quite challenging at the set angle. We use 20’s on our 45 as well, and they are DEVIOUS.

Resistors: Slippery smears and tiny polished edges. Great for kickers to 20 degrees. These are really the only way indoors to learn to trust horrible polished feet outside. Meant to cause anxiety and make you afraid to use them. So that you aren’t when you get outside…

Diodes: Sharp edge versions of the Resistors. Scary to use, but will make you trust feet in a real way. You can find all of our feet here: Great for Vertical to 30ish degrees.

You can find them all here: Holds

I wish the indoor climbing gym I currently frequent would be willing to set aside part of the wall (lead and/or boulder) and build routes/problems with handholds and then have really bad foot holds that are a free-for-all, to be used on any problem. Finding feet that suits ones own body is a valuable skill to have outdoors. These would be excellent candidates.

FWIW, I’m trying to get the local YMCA to order some of these!

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I agree about bad feet. I’ve got a moon mini in my garage. Apart from the moon yellow holds and one set of wood holds I have a load of Uprising seconds (NZ brand) on my board.
After seeing comments about importance of bad feet I put a load of Metolius screw on chips on the bottom third. It has made a massive difference to my foot work and willingness to use feet really firmly.
Basically, I set problems that might have any feet and then try again just using rubbish chips. Even warmups become a lot more challenging and requiring more precision and thought.

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Time for a purchase methinks. Training is going to become my life once this kid comes.

Thank you for the thoughtful design (though I know it was selfishly birthed lol) :wink:

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Escape is doing their “Black November” sales all next month and might have these holds for cheap. I’ve been eyeballing some of the Inductor footholds as well, so fingers crossed they’re marked down at some point!

Also good luck with the kiddo! Having a home wall is priceless with little ones, no matter how close you may live to a gym.

If you can get em marked down, do it for sure. I doubt they’ll be part of the sale since we only make a few dollars per sale. They suck so much to make and I fought to keep the price as low as possible already. Fingers crossed for you though!

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Ah, I shoulda figured y’all got a portion of each sale. Even if they don’t get marked down, I’m planning on picking up a couple sets before the end of the year.

Quick question. Would any of the Inductor 10s be useable on a 30° wall?

@Shudson for sure. We have some on our 45. Little lovely nightmares.

That is such an inspiring description. I’m sold.:ok_hand:

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We’ve got them ALL over our spray wall at Crux. I try to almost exclusively use them when I can. They’ve leveled up the wall.

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Before I got any of the inductors, I would rely on pairing the Teknik screw-ons and spikes. Wherever there is a spike, there’s a tiny screw-on. It’s a nice transition to using more of the inductors. It gets you used to really pulling with just the tip of your toe.

For the kicker, I like a combination of the tiny screw-on, diodes, and these smear patches that a friend of mine makes:

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I’m curious what @Kris thinks of these considering he made his models knowing what was out there.

Just started adding them to our spray wall and I have to be SO MUCH MORE PRECISE!!!

I’m looking forward to the level-ups to come :slight_smile:

The smear patches are neat. We’ve used adhesive sandpaper for similar things, but it doesn’t hold up so well.
We have a lot of the other feet mentioned, and they are great. They do have a few features we wanted to avoid in order to make things even harder.

  1. You can edge on them even if they face away from you. We wanted to force you to change your leg position in order to access the usable part if the foothold was pointing even slightly away from you.
  2. Most are still really good on a 45, so JUGS on a 20. Handholds even. We wanted more control over the appropriate challenge.
  3. Most feet, in order to increase the challenge, go slopier or smeary. We wanted tiny edges that didn’t reward smearing, like I find outside ALL THE TIME.
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Yeah the guy who makes the smear patches manages a grungy old gym in central PA and would do exactly that, and made these patches precisely because just straight up adhesive sandpaper never seems to last. Not sure how these are going to hold up just yet, but I love having the option to smear on them for now

What angle is your wall that you’re using the patches on?

My board only has the Teknik screw on set and inductors for feet and its probably the best hold buying decision I’ve made. Great idea on the progression from spikes!

@maxdtaylor they’re on the kicker for my 45 degree wall. Still sorta learning how to actually use them

@Pisyphus it’s one of the easy ways to make things easier or harder - I’m a big fan of it

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