Balancing Objectives

I’ve been kind of wrestling around this topic in my head for a little while, but I think I just figured out how to phrase the question!

How do you think about achieving a balance between movement specific skills and energy system specific training?

I’ve heard @Kris talk on the podcast about people thinking they need to train core/finger strength in order to be able to do a move or to improve their climbing.

Maybe this applies more (but not only) to sport climbers because endurance tends to be more of a factor, and endurance training tends to be more repetitive. I realize that repetitive climb can still be skill based, but I also think the returns are diminishing.

I’m really curious to hear how people think about these two different priorities.

I’m currently spending HOURS a week doing ARC style training, where I climb up and down a route with a fixed line and a petzl ASAP as a backup in case I fall (or sometimes in a gym with auto belay, which is more convenient for most people I guess).

Every time I go up and down I focus on something else: soft hands, silent feet, heavy feet, hip in, hip square. So at least for this SUPER boring aerobic endurance style training, I think it’s perfectly possible to train both the energy system and the movement skills to ingrain good habits and try out different ways of moving.

I also try to incorporate this when focussing on strength. I started doing every kilter board problem 3x, where I also change up the style of movement (sloth/monkey, hip in or out, etc). Doesn’t mean I can always top the problem, but it’s still fun to experiment and try to improve in different ways.

I don’t do power endurance training so I have no idea how training movement skills while doing power endurance would feel, but at least for aerobic endurance and strength it seems to go together really well! It’s not a zero sums game, but more like the whole is more than the sum of the pieces :slight_smile:

Keep in mind I’m new to training so it’s hard for me to reflect and say how it’s working so far, but at the moment I’m really positive about this. First of all, it makes the boring stuff (like warming up or doing aerobic training) a little less boring. Second, it makes the exciting stuff (limit bouldering on kilter board) even more challenging. And third, having this as a plan somehow makes me return home completely satisfied - even if I haven’t done anything particularly interesting.