I noticed, that my hips are often far away from the wall, when I climb in overhangs (in particular on the board). Especially, when i am not stretched out but more scrunched up and square (bent arm, feet closer to hands).I also noticed, that I struggle with climbing on a straight overhung face (board), when the feet are not optimally positioned (maybe that information helps). I might also be missing some drop knees in the context of board climbing here and there but thats another story.
Therefore I wanted to ask if somebody has a drill(-instruction) that I could try out to improve this. I thought about just being aware of the hip engagement (mostly external rotation of hip) when I am square on the wall, or for example sagging far away and engage back to perceive the pattern of hip engagement.
It would be great if i can do it alone with video analysis.
Thank you very much for helping me out, lookin forward to your ideas / inputs.
I think this will be really hard to answer without knowing more about your level of climbing, experience, and hip flexibility. Maybe share a video? There are simple drills to encourage turning, such as traversing/easy climbing while keeping the arms straight. But it’s hard to know without knowing for how long you’ve climbed if those are appropriate for you.
Hip flexibility could also be the issue, or not knowing when to flag. For flagging, you can do easy climbing/traversing and force a flag on every move. A bit dull but effective.
Its not a drill, but I would echo the comment about examining hip mobility. There could be lots of other things to look at as well, but really targeted hip mobility is something that has helped me get a lot closer to the wall when needed.
When you are on steep terrain and bunched up, are you sure your hips should be closer to the wall? The “hips to the wall” cue is grossly over used, and one of the main scenarios it shouldn’t be used is on steep terrain when bunched up.