I’ve noticed a dull blade in my technique. I don’t feel like I drive up & through with my legs. I’m just rethinking about a recent attempt on a sport route that required an almost dead-point like move from two ok-ish handholds and only one small foothold
Does anyone have any drills for improving on this? It feels like a boulder style move, but most indoor boulder setting is very “comp style”
Should i just find replicas on indoor walls? If anyone has any drills, I’d really appreciate hearing about them
Kris - I heard you developed a drill basically where you train using your feet through the entire range of foot positions. Essentially you can be standing on it flat footed with all of your weight on it or conversely a high foot on a small foothold, and the drill basically teaches you how to apply pressure to your feet on that entire range of foot positions. Sorry, kinda hard to explain well. IIRC you were working with a 5.14 climber, so the guy was no slouch with footwork obviously, and he said he benefited greatly from it. Does this sound familiar? Is this something covered in the ebook? I think I have the same “dull blade” as OP.
Thank you! I found some more notes on it (not just going off memory) so it sounds like you would practice by toeing in on a flat edge on a high step and practice maintaining tension all the way through until you are completely standing on your foot. Basically it was practicing different ways to create tension with the lower body. It sounds like maybe it was a client specific drill. Regardless, I think this ebook sounds perfect, and I’ll be getting it. Thank you!
I think the drill you’re thinking of is “False starts”, and it was Taylor Frohmiller that @Kris was working with. Taylor was a 5.14 climber who was great with momentum, but if he couldn’t generate momentum to initiate a move he would get frozen on the spot and couldn’t do even slightly powerful moves.