Episode 6: Tendon injury and Collagen Peptide application

Breaking Beta Podcast
#1

So this episode was freakin awesome and I have shared it with a bunch of friends and have started taking the Collagen Peptides. It’s super early so while it feels like I have been feeling less pain it might just be my mind playin it’s tricks.

I had some questions about the timing of when to take the supplements in regards to best application and activation of absorption into the affected tissue. So as I understood it the paper said that you have ten minute window for tendon absorption every six hrs and the timing for the collagen to be optimally used in your system is an hr after consumption.

I have tried it two ways as of today. The first was as follows; Take the supplement then warm up and do some on the wall stuff (Proven Plan) then start my weighted hangs approx an hr after I took the supplement. The second way was to take the supplement and then an hr later do a hangboard workout for ten minutes (No Hangs on a variety of edges 10 sec on 10 sec off for about 5-7 mins).

Any ideas or suggestions as to the efficacy of either of these two methods, or am I completely off base haha. Interested in what people have to say.

ps: I am just a climber, not a trainer or nutritionist or anything like that so I am just learning what I can :slight_smile:

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#2

Glad you enjoyed it. I’d say both methods are a good bet, and it’s all guesswork of one is better than the other.

#3

I’m no expert, but from what I understand you can hang on a pretty low intensity and still give the stimulus to your tendons. So I’m trying to be mindful what kind of stimulus I’m giving: anything on a hangboard is fine, but for instance those rubber band exercises are not (as spreading your fingers isn’t a climbing specific stimulus). Other than that, I guess we’ll just have to wait for more research in order to narrow things down in the future :slight_smile:

#4

I’m pretty curious about this, I’ve been adding a scoop of collagen peptides to my breakfast every morning for a year or so.

Is this doing nothing but making me feel better?

Is the timing of collagen before loading fingers really crucial?

Can I just eat sour snakes at the boulders and get the same effect?

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#5

Since starting the program I am definitely feeling better in my sore finger

I think I am 10 years past the implementation of the sour worms at the crag methodologies.

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#6

Great, episode! Followed it up with 2 more podcast with Keith Baar where he gives a bit more depth and some examples of real programs. The episodes were:

(On the last one the host uses first 10 min to talk about his thanksgiving, so skip)

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