Finger Tendon Health Ritual

I’ve been doing a super simple protocol since about 2019. Figured I’d share . I do 30s foot-on hangs rest 30s.

Set 1) 30m half crimp
Set 2) 15-20mm half crimp
Set 3) 3 finger drag on 15mm
Set 4) pinch the power strips 10m on top

That’s it, also I have been pairing this with collagen about 40mins before. Full disclosure I’m an ambassador for Physivantage.

I do this everyday unless I’m climbing or training than I do a more specific warm up instead based on the session goals.

Been climbing over 20 years and over the past 2 years my fingers have felt amazing and stronger than ever.

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Interesting. I had a similar experience after having some tweaky fingers a few years ago - I did pretty high intensity, low volume, high frequency pinch block and hangboard sessions about 2x a day and came out of it feeling pretty damn good.

What’s your RPE when doing the hangs? How pumpy/hard do you make it?

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Roughly an RPE of 6- 7, I get close to being pumped, but never actually pumped, just warm.

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There’s good literature supporting this theory from Keith Barr et al (not for fingers, so we’re making a leap) that Paul and I will be discussing in a few weeks on Breaking Beta.

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I googled Keith Baar and found this: #156 Dr. Keith Baar | Tendon Health and Elastic Power Performance
Super interesting! Nice to read how tendons work and adapt!

Joel has a bunch of great stuff on that podcast!

I think this is very interesting.

When you program these hangs, do you consider them to be an extra stressor on your tendons (meaning that you would reduce something else in your program)? Or do you consider them 100% recovery?

I’m curious about trying them out but I don’t want to add something to my training program that suddenly ends up over stressing my tendons and causing injury :blush:

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For me the answer is no. I think about this like brushing my teeth. The protocol I use takes 3-4mins and I believe it improves my recovery and helps my skin as well.

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It should be low intensity enough that there is very little risk of overloading.

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I have been doing something like this for some weeks now and its been helping for sure. However I am starting a Proven plan this week and was wondering if I should cut my daily NoHangs down or out maybe during the training?

Any perspectives on this?

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I would drop it on days you train and warm-up for that session as prescribed. Unless, for example you do these no-hangs in the AM and plan to train in the PM, as long as you get 4+ hours rest, I don’t think they would affect your PM session at all.

@Adamtilos Yea my plan would be to do the no hangs like that at lunch or in the morning before. I like the routine I have built and I’d hate to lose the rhythm.

Another +1 to low-intensity hangs/pulls for recovery. Here’s what I do…

5x (each hand):

  • 40 sec pull on tension block (~4/10 RPE, half crimp, 20mm)
  • 2 min rest

These were described to me as “density hangs” by Kevin at The Climb Clinic. It’s been super valuable in keeping my finger joints healthy.

I just do it on the couch, etc. It definitely doesn’t interfere with training. Super easy.

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I think the density term was coined by Tyler Nelson and I use it as well, but I’m not necessarily happy with it. Too many other connotations. It refers to the fact that some research shows that 30 seconds is roughly the time under tension required to increase the density of a tendon.

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