Gym climbs to skip…outdoors?

Just enjoyed listening to the “gym climbs to skip” episode and it made me wonder how much of that same list applies for you outside?

I think I dig the All the Boulders approach, but also aren’t there times where a problem should be skipped (at least temporarily) because it’s too tweaky, dangerous, in that mid-grade zone Nate describes, etc.? I need to listen again to remember more of the list but just curious if folks thought it was really just for the gym.

I live in MD so it’s not like I have endless options of problems, so I end up circling back to ones I skipped before and learn that now they have a lot to offer and teach…but also I’ve recently decided to skip one of my big goal projects because it was too dangerous, and skipped another goal project bc it was tweaking my knee each attempt…hopefully I’ll come back to them one day bc they are inspiring, who knows.

I don’t have a lot of experience outdoors (looking to change that this year!), but I already noticed how big of a deal conditions can make. Skipping slopers/friction dependent boulders on a humid day might be a good idea to save skin. I personally made the mistake of picking a project at my limit that was in the sun most of the time, allowing only 1 attempt a day.

Not sure if this warrants completely skipping the boulder or route, but it could help re-prioritizing and maybe deciding to come back to certain climbs.

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With climbing outdoors in a local area, I view it less like skipping and more like waiting for the right time. Indoor routes disappear so if you skip past them then that is a permanent decision. I think it makes a lot of sense to wait for the right time with outdoor climbs.

In this blog post I laid out in the example how I approach filling in those gaps to climb “all the boulders”. If you are doing it right, I think you can have a pretty natural feeling session while sneaking in a few odd climbs here and there between trying classics.

As far as skipping outdoor climbs goes, I don’t personally go through and tick all of the easiest climbs in a boulderfield. Using Stone Fort as an example, when I lived in Chatt I wanted to do as much of the guidebook as I could. As the grades got below v4 I started to get more picky though. I wasn’t going to spend a full day climbing 50 zero star v0’s and v1’s.


Thanks! That article is super helpful and eerily specific to my particular situation as I recently sent my first couple V9s and have been asking the same questions with the same numbers on them. I just bookmarked the article to re-read and think through carefully!

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