Hangboard Repeaters: sets, reps, number of holds

People talk about different protocols a lot but they don’t always talk about the specifics. Even most articles I’ve read: they say they do repeats and list out the times (10s on 5 sec off, 7 sec on 3 sec off, etc) but they don’t always specify what’s best for how many reps and how long these sessions last. Just curious what others are doing and have seen improvements with. I get bored of hangboarding sessions that are longer than 20 mins, so I try to keep mine pretty short.

Right now I’m doing repeaters on 20mm hold and 3 finger pocket holds. I do 4 sets of 4 repeaters, so:

20mm edge
7 seconds on, 5 seconds off x4
rest 2 min
Repeat 4x

3 Finger Pocket
7 seconds on, 5 seconds off x4
rest 2 min
Repeat 4x

I’m building up to 5 reps rather than 4 for each set, but not quite there yet.

Is this really enough? Do I need to add a third hold type? The 3 seconds off felt way too short for me, so I switched to 5, even though that’s not a very common protocol.

Ultimately what matters is what you hope to gain from it and if you’re progressing toward that.
Every protocol you imagine could be useful - there’s no one that’s better than others.

7:3 came about because 10 is a nice number when using a stopwatch or timer. With digital times and beeps to let us know times, we don’t need that ease anymore.

Generally speaking, more rest between reps will get your aerobic system more involved for recovery. Less rest or higher intensity (to a point) will be more anaerobic.

If you have a specific goal, and either no access to climbing or this is your preferred way of training “endurance”, then tailoring the session toward that goal is a good bet.

“Is that enough?” The answer depends on the goals. Is something in Wild Iris the goal? Then that’s plenty. Is something in the Madness Cave the goal? Maybe not “enough”. Not on its own anyway.

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That’s the kind of “It depends” answer that’s actually useful…

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