Hangboarding hacks

Similarly to the climbing hacks post i`d like to spark an exchange of hangboarding hacks. I for example would really like to know what to do with a slippery bamboo hangboard to get better friction (chalk and sanding doesn’t help much)

Depends exactly what you mean by hack I suppose.
I actually think a more slippery board IS a hack, for climbers who need to learn how to grip offensively rather than defensively. I considered designing a board with no texture at all for exactly that.
For climbers going to a place like the Red for the first time, learning a defensive grip on a textured board is beneficial.

My hangboard hack is that in the winter, when I don’t want to go out into the gym just for a few hangs, I keep a tension block and a tindeq in the house and do my hangs while I work.


I agree with that, i like being “punished” for loosing form when i train my weaker half crimp. But at the same time hanging off 3 fingers becomes really conditions dependent.

You could always put a super fine grit adhesive sandpaper on it.

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1: those portable humidity sensors that you see all the pros using.

2: protocols that mix small edges and weighted big edges are the best (If your climbing area has lots of small holds). Somewhere there is a podcast about how small holds aren’t just about strength, but recruitment, and if I could remember who did it when I’d link it because o personally thinks it’s super important.

3: I find the blocks are a lot nicer on the parts of your body you don’t know are important to hangboarding (shoulders, and, etc), and can be a little bit better of a true metric measurer, but are harder to use for regular training imo

Depends on the metric you want. Pure finger strength, maybe. Validity for climbing, maybe not.

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The only thing I’ve found, aside from the obvious fan, dehumidifier, Netflix etc is that I am better able to recruit for max hangs if I do a round or two of moderately difficult 6/10 repeaters first.

Like I have a hard time consistently adding +70# to my hang on a 20mm edge. If I warm up using max hangs I might be able to do one rep at 8 seconds, one at 9 one at 7

If I warm up doing 6/10 for 5 reps with maybe +50# on the 20mm edge I’ll be better prepared to crush the +70# for 10 seconds for 4-5 reps

Same holds true for minimum edge work.

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Struggling to recruit at home as well, will try what you said!

Hey Kris,

how do your numbers on the Tindeq compare to hangboarding? is there any equivalency or do they seam very separate ? I can only seam to generate about 40% of my two handed hang scores with the Tindeq and block. I have played around with this a bit, but never seriously used it as training

@McD No clue. I view every hangboarding tool as different, so I’ve just never tried to compare.

A great “hack” for progressing in HB, is to think of progression in terms of volume and TUT “time under tension”, and not just weight added or edge size.
For example: add a set or add a rep
-once you have added a set or a rep and owned that load, increase the load decrease the set/reps again, and start over
-repeat a protocol/load/volume 2x before trying to increase any of the above
*To summarize increase the TUT 1st then reduce the TUT and add more load.
The below is an example using a 7:53 protocol (in this example I was able to (intuitively) add 5lbs mid-way through the progression.
After completing this I would recommend starting over with ~45lbs

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Cool, i follow something similar where i start with 3 10s hangs then every week i add a hang until i can do 5 and then its time to add +2.5kg and get back to 3 hangs.

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I used fingerless gloves my last session. Felt good. I suffer from poor circulation (Reynaud’s) which gets worse as soon as the winter season begins. I’ll get purpleish finger tips despite being indoors so this little hack is one I’ll continue with.

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Thats a propper hack by definition, good thinking!

Fan, thorough warm-up including recruitment pulls, Chalk in a convenient place, battle music of your choice. I love the hangboard because its so simple and you can just show up and rage on the thing. When I know a set is going to be hard I set up a camera to make sure I don’t break form (e.g. half crimp). When I’m doing a really finger strength focused block I take two rest days after each session (1st is a supplemental strength, lifting type day). I feel like I could try hard again that second rest day but I rest anyway and that feeling makes me go to bed early and eat well and get psyched for the next day of hard training.

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