What are some strategies people employ to continue training while not digging themselves into a hole or overexerting their soft-tissue?
In strength-training it is very common to have a deload week every 4-6 weeks. That community seems to have settled into keeping intensity high, and reducing volume significantly for one week.
Is that adequate for climbing or is the sport different enough to warrant another approach?
Do we need to reduce training stress more frequently or for longer durations given how long it takes for tendons and ligaments to recover?
I for one am thinking about exploring an idea Dan John employs, although again with strength & conditioning, namely
ow do you approach fatigue management in training?
“I believe that 1 out of 5 workouts should be “tonic””
— Dan John
Just Fly Performance Podcast: 96: Dan John “The Superiority of a Simple Training Program” | Sponsored by SimpliFaster Dan John: The Superiority of a Simple Training Program | Podcast #96
(I’m sorry I don’t have a playback position for you). Tonic meaning “easy”. Just get in there and move.
The more traditional deloading schema (high intensity/low volume) I think would be difficult to employ at my local gym. Especially with bouldering. I don’t like being the kind of person that mentions grades, but with regards to the idea raised in the topic
that grades within an environment constitute their own universe I’d argue that the universe I’m in is inconsistent.
I’ve been at this gym for about two years and during that time I’ve been spending the majority of my time touching plastic that is graded by either one of these three pieces of colored tape,
- Black (6B+/6C+)
- Red (6A/6B)
- Blue (5A/5C)
When the gym was new, I’d oftentimes succeed at Black. Then came a long period of time when Red made up the majority of my climbing diet with Blacks being rare. During both times, everything below that was essentially flash grade.
Over time, the consistency has degraded. Now, unlike before, even a blue can send me (and others) back to the mat. The only thing that can be trusted for a blue is that it won’t be “pull-up” strength heavy, but you can’t go off of the grade as much to determine just to what degree the holds will be bad. The gym is very crimpy.
Sure, there is a spray wall and I could set up there but it’d take me away from climbing with my friends that are mostly just keen on solving problems.