How often do you train on a spray wall vs set boulders

In case you have both a commercial set and and spray wall available, how much do you spend on each and what it depends on? Id love to do 50/50 but my main climbing partners don’t like the spray wall so i only use it when i train alone as a strength training tool to make crimpy problems. On a commercial set i usually can get away with compression instead. How do you combine your spray wall and commercial gym training to both have fun and work on your goals?

Commercial for socialising, unstructured climbing. Spray wall for training (mainly on my own as I might be doing different protocols to my friends).

Depends on the available routes you have on the set,A lot of Commercial Setting doesn‘t really apply for training. At the moment i’m 100% Spray and Tension,just climb on the regular gymset when i’m setting… But we started to always set some problems suitable for training for people that are hesitant to work on the spraywall. Maybe i‘ll start to do my Endurance training on the regular set as i just have a broader set of wall angles and less work setting my own problems to cycle through …

Why aren’t the commercial settings good for training?

It’s not that they’re not good. More like, they are less optimal/transferable to training (IMO).

Setting can have parkour/comp style movements. Great for coordination, but not really ideal for physical training.

Blocs can also be reset too frequently, so there’s never any long term projects to train on. People also tend to gravitate to the new sets rather then training.

The blocs can tend to fit the movement pattern/body shape of the setter. So there’s less options for beta.

But, it’s all in your approach. Any wall is only as good as your approach to purposeful training, and every wall-type has it’s limitations.

It depends on the gym, my goals, and the setting. A lot of gyms I go to have setting that I’d consider more than good enough for training as long as I don’t get distracted by always wanting to do the new set.

My preference for spray walls tends to show up when I’m training for routes. It’s nice to be able to have long circuits that I can keep around for months or longer without fear of resetting. If I’m training for routes then I’ll warm up on the gym set and then spend most of my session on the spray board.

I use it less so for boulders. For training on boulders prefer commercial boards (kilter being my choice for the last 6 months) over spray walls because It’s easier for me to find climbs that don’t bias towards my strengths.

I WISH I had commercial setting available, especially coordination problems. I suspect the transfer is far better than most of us believe - I’d go as far as saying that it’s likely better for most of us, as the general “training” problems do very little in terms of decision making, problem solving, or any other soft skills, and most of us already do so much of that style that the benefit is likely very low in comparison to a new challenge.

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Oh,the friendly reminder that there‘s more than physical training :sweat_smile:

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:man_shrugging:t2::joy:

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