How do you structure rope climbing sessions if you are shooting for power endurance?!
It seems the only answer I found so far is this:
I have been using the boulders only programs from Power Company Climbing (5.12 and 5.13) for several cycles now and begun to really like the structure they brought to my bouldering.
…whilst now having the oportunity to go sport climbing at a climbing gym once a week, it feels so totally unstructured and like I’m not learning as much from it as I would if I had done more perfect repeats or 3 strike repeats…
On the other hand my focus is getting better at sport climbing and I clearly see that I am more confident when climbing outside at the weekends having sport climbed also during my training week.
So the question is, how to substitute bouldering power endurance training days by rope climbing gym days in a structured and usefull way…
I definitely don’t want to do tons of limit bouldering on a rope …or do 15 useless pitches not focusing on any tecnical skills/drills…
I guess (just from watching most of the guys and girls at the gym) that I am not alone with this… It seems like everybody is going for between 6 and 15 pitches by using the method: 2-3 to get warm and then alsways shooting for max onsight level.
Thank you guys, really appreciate all the input you are giving me!
If your gym has the same super sustained style of setting that most gyms I’ve been to have then I think probably max on-sight is about the same as a 4x4.
In my experience, it’s hard to maintain focus for long enough (or find someone willing to belay for long enough) to do the standard Power Company movement drills. So I prefer to use rope climbing in the gym as a projecting/second tier session only. Basically warm up, and then climb on a project using good tactics.
That said, if you still wanted to include movement drills, I’d suggest warming up and doing drills on the bouldering wall and then dialling in the intensity of the roped climbing based on the goal of the session.
I’d probably just count it as an outside climbing day, honestly and have fun. As much fun as climbing on a rope in a gym can be, it’s just never gotten me much even when I was focused and did 4x4s on ropes with a dedicated partner who was psyched on it. I built plenty of capacity that way, but I didn’t really get stronger- I could climb 5.10 all day, but 5.11 and 5.12 didn’t feel any easier.
Either that, or you could stay later and build in a boulder session to add a little structure to the session- consider rope climbing your warm up and part of your workout, then get your limit or 3 strike on at maybe a little lower grade since you’ve been climbing for a couple of hours.
This is one of my favorite drills to use on a rope for PE. If you find a route that is set up nicely for it (or combine sections of two routes), then it can really hammer home the need for climbing well on easier terrain when fatigued.