Improving / keeping abilty to try hard while injured

After couple of injuries in my fingers and knees i noticed that it is not difficult to modify your training program to not only keep but potentially improve climbing strength, technique and precision. However, from my experience the ability to try hard which is highly depends on confidence is really hard to maintain. For me to be able to try hard i need to convince myself that is safe and i’m not compromising my recovery. Do you have an example session that would let me work on the tryhard while recovering?

What found so far is that repeating a well known boulder for 2 of 3 times back to back can let you recreate the conditions of try-hard. The boulder has to be carefully selected to be safe for you injury. Ego is less involved since you have sent it already, and the moves are well studied to so even if you have to fight in 2nd 3rd rep and your technique breaks you can guarantee that you don’t expose yourself to positions that are the most vulnerable for re-injury. Do you have other ideas?

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I don’t have ideas for you but like what you proposed, plus I’d like to hear a bit more about what you’ve found out about modifying your training when injured and still improving…

Long story short mid january i injured something in my ring DIP join, so that going beyond 90 degree in crimp causes pain. So the key to my recover once again (apart from taking care of protein / water / sleep / etc) were couple of things:

  • Systematized off the wall warmup that includes very light repeaters (around 10% BW) with a crimp block. I came up with a session where i go through a rotation of grips [4f open> 3f open > pockets > 4f half crimp > 3f back / front half crimp > full crimp ] a few rounds of 10s each. The outcome of that session on a good day would be a really deeply warm palm and fingers and confidence that i’m ready for a bit of climbing on the wall. On a bad day that would be all i do.
  • Reduced dynamic climbing to 0 and reduce total climbing volume by around 50%. So on the days where warmup went well i would pick a selection of climbs that only have safe body positions for my injury and i would climb them statically, focusing on the feet, tension, precision of grabbing holds where nothing hurts. I would tape the injured finger to block me from accidentally getting into painful position. I found this drill really lets you work on full body climbing strength even with a finger injury. To keep it fun I would invent projects for climbing this or that move statically where my peers usually default to a deadpoint. This period lasted around 2 months. Spray wall is your friend, especially with modifiable angle, since you can have a productive session pushing your limits within the situation you are in.

Currently i feel ‘almost’ recovered, so i’m carefully introducing volume, move diversity, dynamic climbing and more limit stuff where try hard is necessary. The warmup routine is still my main tool to signal when i can push and when i should back off. I hope it gives some ideas and if you’re injured now i hope you have someone more experienced for help than a guy from the internet.

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For repeats, I like this:
3 Strike Circuit

For new, moderately hard ones I like this:
Ten Minute Takedown Walkthrough

And of course, lots of thoughts in the recent REMIX: EFFORT episode.

Ultimately, it comes down to graded exposure with fewer moving parts.

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Thanks @Kris , few questions.

  • 3 strike repeats, did i understand correctly that i have a stack of boulders that i have sent before and they were above flash (i guess entire range from second go to multi sesson project is ok) . I pick a boulder from the top of my stack, if i manage to repeat it within 3 tries, it goes either to the bottom or out, if i dont then it stays and the next session i have a 3 go on it again. Correct?
  • Can the Ten Minute Takedown be a full session where i spend 10 min on say 3-4 boulders? Or its more useful to stack it with other drills as a “tactics and try hard warmup” for upcoming 30 min of limit bouldering?
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All of the above. No real rules in how you use them other than grab holds that don’t hurt and injure you worse!

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hahaha thanks for filling me in and thankfully I am not injured, I was just curious about your approach plus the type of injury that might allow climbing. It all makes sense now!