With the unfortunate demise of the Eat Spray Love app, how is everyone keeping track of things?
We are now using Retro Flash, and the developers there have been great at listening to feedback. Pro Tip: If you have a lot of problems to transfer into the app, get the upgraded wall feature. It’s so much faster!
What happened to Eat Spray Love? I feel like I remember you mentioning it in some episode, but don’t recall. Anyway, that’s what I’ve been using (still am) since finishing my home wall last winter. Might take the Retro Flash recommendation though if Spray is going to become unavailable.
I like that Retro Flash says you can create your own grading system. I don’t really like having to grade everything, and it would be nice to just categorize with something like “easy, medium, hard, limit”. Maybe I should start migrating before I stack up too many problems.
It still works on Android I believe, but not on Apple. I can’t remember the exact reason, but it wasn’t something the original developer had time to fix as it required a nearly full rebuild.
Apple users can still see it, they just can’t add new boulders.
Ugh, that’s rough, but does explain why I’ve been alright to use it. That’s the way personal projects go sometimes I suppose
No doubt. Retro Flash has some limitations, but over all is pretty damned nice.
Good to know - thanks!
I’ve thought a little about making something like that for a side project myself, but haven’t committed the time to it. Maybe I’ll get a spark of inspiration after I settle into my new job and the nights get long and cold.
I use retro flash and really like it. Also highly recommend boulderbot.io - an app that helps automatically generate routes (you can set a lot of parameters). Takes some time to set up (you need to specify every hold) but I’ve had a lot of fun with it since. Most fun I had on my home wall was when the head route setter at my local gym and I tried boulder bot on max difficulty, we had to do some pretty crazy moves
I also used to use boulder challenge, which was good and had a lot of features - but retro flash had a much better UX so I ended up switching.
Hmmm that boulder bot thing looks interesting. I’m curious how well it does at assessing the hold type, size, etc. (or do you add all of that when you set it up?). I could see it being useful for getting me to try moves I might otherwise not have seen, especially since I’m generally the only person using my wall and don’t have other folks to set as well.
I certainly like the creative side of setting problems and at least try to be honest with myself about setting to help train for what I need to train, as well as trying really hard moves when limit bouldering. Something else to nudge me in the direction of things I might not see could be cool/useful though.
Exactly, boulder bot has pushed me to try stuff I otherwise wouldn’t even think of! I made a couple of video’s on my YouTube channel to show the type of routes boulder bot creates, if you’re interested.
The way it works is that you set up your board. You have to specify the dimensions, the angle and manually input every hold (and say if they’re good, ok, bad or footholds). The algorithm then goes to work. Because you don’t specify underclings, pinches etc. it’s not anywhere near as good as a routesetter, but I still highly suggest you give it a go. The developer told me the new version will have a bunch of extra features to customize routes further. This version is already available on android (I haven’t tried it yet), but the iOS version will still take a few months I think.
If you give it a try, let me know what you think! Curious to hear your opinion
What a great app. Perfect for people who climb on board on their own, who needs some inspiration