I’m doing it mostly by feel, and haven’t cared too much about logging it all, but I can give you the basics.
At first I couldn’t hang bodyweight on a medium campus rung. Even fully warmed up. I could one arm the same rung in halfcrimp.
I started by gradually getting used to trying to hold bodyweight on that edge. Took a few sessions, but I could pretty quickly hang for 10-15 seconds once I was warmed up.
Next I started doing easy warmups all full crimped.
I gradually moved to hanging smaller edges, and at the same time began using weighted no hangs, doing finger curls with light weight to get used to pulling into the position from fully open.
Gradually moved to practicing that on easy warmups.
While climbing, I tried to pay attention to how positions felt with the new wrist angles, and explore whether or not my go-to good positions needed to change. I still don’t fully understand the when and why, it I can feel it more often.
It was around this time that it really started showing up in climbing. I started intuiting when it would be beneficial, and found myself not realizing I had done it (I would see it on video or a friend would point it out) in some cases.
My current training is max pulls at both half and full crimp. Low volume, really high intensity.
They are still my weakest grip, but much stronger than before, and getting used more often, including while fatigued, which felt like a big win. I believe Nate and I talked about that in a Patron episode. I can full crimp hang on pretty small edges with no warmup now, with no worry, which feels like a big win.
Unlikely that they’ll ever be even close to as useful to me as half crimp, but they are a good tool that’s opened up a few things.