Pain on the back of your hand?

I have had a chronic issue with pain on the back of my lefthand. it comes and goes, but at times it can limit the amount of hard climbing I can do. It used to only bother me on slopers, but more recently crimping has also been an issue. Indoor climbing is usually worse than outdoors.

Sometimes IMS/dryneedling the muscles in my hand can help ( this can be fairly painful). One physio has suggested the small muscles in my hand are not strong enough, but had a difficult time suggesting how to fix this.

Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any suggestions?

I had extensor tendinitis years ago that would cause the backs of my hands to swell up and any pump would last for hours, but no pain.

And we’ll, crack climbing, but that’s a different story. :joy::man_facepalming:t2:

interestingly crack climbing does not bother my hand. At least not anymore than the usual scrapes and bruises from over jambing with poor technique!

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Let me ask my fiance. She’s a body wizard. She might have an idea. But off the top of my head, I’m with Kris that it might be extensor-related.

thanks, much appreciated.

She says it depends on “what you did.” But it could be weak hand muscles or extensors. She has this video you can try as an exercise before each climb to warm up your extensors.

Sounds like it may be related to the dorsal interosseous muscles. Amongst other actions, these intrinsic muscles help regulate tension across the middle knuckle (PIP) during flexion. I have had strains to this region myself and I suspect it may have contributed to a recent A4 pulley sprain. As with any soft tissue strain injury, manual therapy (dry needle, IASTM, etc) can help alleviate pain and tension temporarily, but progressive loading is needed to fully address the issue.

There are a variety of ways to load these muscles, but of course it depends on exactly what is irritated. Find yourself a qualified Certified Hand Therapist in your area and get assessed.

Source: I am a CHT

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