I’m currently training hangboarding, and have noticed that my 3 finger drag is a lot stronger than other holds. Been going hard on full crimp and half-crimp lately. I kind of tweaked my middle finger early last week. Thankfully, I didn’t keep going through the pain, and through gradual loading over the past few days it’s already feeling much better.
But, all this extra time experimenting with different finger positions made me notice something.
The palmar interossei muscle on the index finger of my left hand doesn’t engage when I half-crimp, while it does on my right hand. The result is that my index finger rolls away from the middle finger leaving a bit of a gap when I’m half crimping. And I think that allowed my middle finger to roll towards my index finger during hangboarding, which caused my injury.
Anyway, now I’m trying to compare the two hands. My right hand definitely feels a lot more stable, as all of the fingers are squeezing tight against each other. I feel like I should train my left hand to do the same. I guess I can do it by holding a rubber band with my right hand, and squeezing my index finger towards my ring finger while in a half-crimp position. Or just do it isometrically, by consciously doing a maximal contraction when the PIP joints are pressing against each other.
I’m kind of excited! Anyone else play around with this? A brief internet search didn’t turn up much, other than this post by Jared Vagy: Login • Instagram
Do you squeeze your fingers together when you do a maximal half-crimp?