Recently i started exploring bouldering moves with my arms wide (pseudo iron cross style) where i either cut loose latch to a hold far away to the side, or hold tension while keeping double gastons / crimps far apart. For reference, some relevant strength metrics are +50% bodyweight pullup x2 and +30% strict 1 arm kettlebell press for 3-4 reps. How can i supplement my practice with additional strengthening exercises, on top of practicing the moves themself or their scaled down versions. Thanks)
I’d consider the direction of engagement as well. Wide compression? Wide down pull? Wide gaston?
For my money, since it sounds like a general attack, I’d go fairly general on shoulder strengthening and spend comparatively more time understanding the positions and tension involved - particularly what you can get out of the lower body when moving into and out of those positions.
I’d second what @Kris is saying here. Last summer I found I had a weakness in really wide positions on edges when my feet would cut. I’d do simple wide pull-up ladders to build up familiarity with the full range of motion during strength sessions and set boulders that would involve similar movements and climb them at different speeds/intensities. This would look like starting using jugs at a wide position and cutting feet after establishing the position static, holding for 2-3seconds with feet off, then proceeding with the rest of the problem. I progressed to making dynamic moves to edges at similar positions and reestablishing on the wall quickly before proceeding. I’d get more specific on the wall and keep the off the wall work more general as @Kris recommended.
Yeah its the wide downpulls and gaston, compression is solid.
I’ve found I-Y-Ts are good for building shoulder stability in a number of positions.
This is something I’m also working on. So I’m gonna keep following this topic to see what else people suggest