Skillscape reviews anyway?

Tension is playing with a data based coaching app described here Science of Skillscape – Tension Climbing
Have anybody looked at it? What`s your experience?

I’ve played with it a little, but that was just before I was sidelined from surgery so I don’t have as much experience as I’d like.

The app update is pretty neat. All the new features and what not are cool, but the app has slowed significantly from the old version.

As far as the actual skillscape stuff goes, I think the idea is really neat, and they do an alright job of employing it. The downside is, even if you look at the chart at the link above, the skills kind of max out around the V7 range. So, the whole “collecting them” thing runs out relatively quick with the grades.

The skills are cool to earn and, based on my experience, there is a large variety of them and they really are all of the board as far as techniques and types of climbs go. The quest to level them all up does exactly what is intended, gets you on a large variety of moves and works to improve your overall ability. The biggest downside in my opinion is that, unless I’m wrong, it doesn’t actually tell you what the skills are? It seems to me that there is just this set of “skills” and you try to do them and that’s cool?

Where this data based approach REALLY shines though is in the problem recommendations. The new setting for “limit boulders”, “volume”, and “boulders you suck at” work REALLY well. Even if you aren’t into the vague skills thing, the application of them to the app recommend climbs for these things is phenomenal. The limit boulders are well chosen, a mix of harder climbs in your style and somewhat easier climbs that are slightly anti style. The anti-style boulder setting is also very good at choosing boulders, but all of these work better if you also climb quite a few boulders you choose yourself.

Overall, I think it is really neat and really good, but also has a lot of room for improvement.

I have some insider info here, and I have an episode on Skillscape with Will Anglin that I’m sitting on until they are ready for it to go out.

I think I can safely say that they are steadily working on updates and improvements, and are just being cautious to not release it too quickly. They’ve been at the point of releasing updates a few times, and rolled it back to make sure they are taking care of various issues.

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Love love love this. Psyched to hear it! I would love to know what they’ve got going on and what they have in mind. Super into the data aspects of climbing.

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Ooo spoilers! haha awesome looknig forward

Sounds sick, i wish we had a tension board, havent seen it in any of the gyms around me.

I was using the skill scape function in the Tension app a lot last summer and loved it, can’t wait to hear the episode with Will Anglin to learn their future plans.

Exactly the same thought - I wished I knew what the skills were that I was working on. In theory I should be able to figure out what the skills were by looking for patterns in the recommended climbs, but in practice I’d just climb em and not quite figure that out.

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According to the Nugget interview, it sounds like Moon is going to be releasing their own version of this idea too :metal:

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