Tension and heel hooks

Physical Training
#1

I set Friday. My fave was a roof to a traverse in which the roof required me to express a lot of tension . I provided a foothold to allow me to obtain the tension.
Such was the amount of force o had to engage through the heel hook I found I had DOMS in the calve a coupla days later.

An Interesting space to explore given that I am a keen purveyor of heel hooks and am starting an adventure in tension.

I loved the way a new version of an existing and well grooved move impacted me in surprising ways.

I mostly feel that I am bumbling from one lightbulb moment to another without really knowing owt. It is a cool juxtaposition of thought/practice.

This is gonna be an awesome deep dive/hard lean.

What physical manifestations have you had, observed that kinda blew your mind a wee bittae and made you furrow the brow about your own or another’s climbing❓

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#2

I’ve had a few major ones over the years. The first I remember at this point was on a boulder in Joshua Tree that I was doing well on except for the first move. The other guy was doing the first move, but not the rest of it. I watched how he placed his foot, and it occurred to me that I never would have placed my foot that way. I tried it and sent.
I’ve since watched Kerry Scott use a similar foot placement that I couldn’t make work - but it’s the only way to do the move as far as I can tell. It’s just a level of mobility and tension that is higher than I can access.

The other I’ve talked about on the podcast. Recognizing that when using full crimp, the body position needs to change slightly from what is ingrained in my open/half crimp brain.

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