if you I have access to a home wall and a hangboard but I am primarily a route and trad climber, what are some suggestions for working endurance using those tools? I recently completed the just climb more boulders proven plan and it has improved greatly but I was looking for more suggestions.
Any of the Build your own machine workouts? Something else? In the past I did this Eric Horst protocol and found it useful:
Thoughts? Ideas? I want to be able to hang on FOREVER in somewhat overhung terrain on decent holds while I look for gear and sus out moves.
#1, I’d be careful not to skip strength and power in your quest for endurance. Training for specific strength and power will almost always be more bang for your buck.
#2, there’s a LOT to learn about endurance that isn’t rooted in physical endurance. Don’t overlook these things. I’ve never met a climber who isn’t already climbing mid 5.13 who couldn’t learn more about endurance climbing.
#3, it’s an impossible question, really. Depends on the goals and what you’re already good at. Decide which parts of endurance climbing you are bad at and practice them. Put yourself into those positions and note how you react. What falls apart first? Take steps to change it next time. And again. And again.
thanks @Kris I intend to stick to 3 days of indoor climbing, 1 day of outdoor on the weekend. That is pretty much the schedule I have. 2 days indoor more focused on strength, power, boulder projects and limit bouldering, 1 day more focused on endurance/power endurance/circuit type stuff…kind of like the program I just did I guess.
After reading your reply I am pretty sure you are right in that my endurance issues are less physical endurance and more related to things like: fear and head game, figuring out moves quickly especially when onsighting, figuring out gear quickly.
I really think item 1 is my main challenge at this point for the climbs on my radar. So, I am making that my priority. But I would like to maintain and not lose all of the physical and technique gains I have made while I switch focus a bit.
I suppose a good barometer would be for me to climb some things when I am NOT scared and see how well my endurance holds up. i.e. mock lead one of my trad routes on TR, placing gear as I go and climb it like I am on lead. If I can climb it that way well, obviously I am physically capable and my roadblock is mental when actually on the sharp end.