UPDATE - 164. Listener Question | How to Know When to Get Better vs. Stronger

Feeling this page is in need of some love so I thought I would share my progress here.

In April 2020 I had the privilege of a question I emailed Kris being featured in an episode of The Power Company Podcast. Admittedly, I had never put my goals or struggles out there for everyone to see. Why, I am not entirely sure. The best answer I can come up with was a mix of fear of failure, and a feeling that no one else really cared about my climbing. When the episode dropped, at the time I had no clue that everyone knowing my current dilemma would be the rocket fuel I needed to push past my current V6 barrier.

It was time to really buckle down. I hired a coach and learned how to train. I questioned why I moved the way I did, worked my perceived weaknesses, and stopped walking away from boulders that were challenging but below my top grade. In short, I fell in love with the ever-evolving process.

So, 19 months later how did everything shake out? This is my pyramid since April 2020 -

V8 (1) - Basalt
V7 (6) - Basalt
V6 (17) - Basalt, Granite, Sandstone; 1 FA

In this time I was able to widen my base and ability on different rock types, while also pushing my top end grade in my local area (Swan Falls, ID). I hope to continue this trend in the future as my progress continues.

Another trend I want to continue is sharing my goals. Currently I am working a Swan Falls classic called Powerman (V8) Swan Falls Bouldering- Power Man (V8/V9) - YouTube. I’ve done all the moves in 2 parts, and want to put this thing down before the end of November. From here I’ll find another V8 or two to project, and continue to build out my V7 base.

Thanks for taking the time to read my spray, and shoutout to @Kris for giving me the fuel I needed to put in the work to reach my goals. If anyone ever finds themselves in Boise for some reason, hit me up for a spot.

T

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That’s really awesome, congratulations on the progress!

How much of an adjustment was it for you to go from doing your own thing to working with a coach?

Like was the programming super different? Did you feel like it was easy to make the adjustment mentally? Are you still working with the coach?

Hey Max! Appreciate the kind words.

For me, it wasn’t much of an adjustment. I played organized sports through college, so having a coach felt natural.

The programming was completely different from doing my own thing. Before working with the coach, I was mainly lifting (due to a traditional gym near work being a good excuse for taking a long lunch break), hangboarding whenever I felt like it, and climbing whatever I could get up at the gym. I started the program right as the pandemic started so it was completely remote and climbing gyms had closed. The program was rather finger and core intensive as these were weaknesses of mine and my access to training equipment was limited. Two aspects I never really focused on prior. Really he helped me see where I was wasting my time and effort.

I no longer work with this coach but may in the future. I have a different coach that I am going to work with in the near future for a different perspective.

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Hell yeah @Maylorturdock !! Great work! Stoked to hear how the new project goes!

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Wow that’s huge progress, congrats!! Hope you enjoy it and keep it up