Update: 7a (5.11d) to 8a (5.13b) in a year, just did my first 7c (5.12d) after the tactical phase

I decided to try and go from climbing 7a to 8a in a single year, starting January. I started on this journey because of some hip issues, which meant I may have to quit bouldering (which I really enjoy, but sport climbing is less hard on the body). In the first 2 months this year, I was focussing on mental skills, which allowed me to climb my first 7b (see previous update). Now, I was focussing on tactics, and sent my first 7c!

The video shows the send as well as the tactics I used on that climb. Of course, I’ve done other things on different climbs. I’ve experimented with shaking tactics and how long to rest, as well as climbing speed. Now I’m starting to understand when to climb fast, and when to climb precise, and how much time to take to shake (or to skip rests and shake while climbing). It’s very useful stuff to experiment with!

I’m very happy I’ve dedicated time to work on mental and tactical skills, as it has made sport climbing significantly more enjoyable for me. Over the next few weeks I will build my pyramid a little bit and have fun. Soon, I will have a double hip surgery, which means lots of hangboarding… So after that, I’ll be a lot stronger and hopefully I’ll be able to send my first 8a this year :slight_smile:

As always, advice is very welcome. In any case, I’m really psyched with the progress! Amazing that climbing allows for improvement in so many different areas :slight_smile:


I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing your process.