Voxel's Process Journal and Training Log

2021-10-12

AM: Morning bouldering session

Some sends I was happy with

PM:
Hangboarding for pulley rehab
3 finger drag.
4x30 second hang on 20mm edge, -20 kilos.

Elbow rehab
3 sets of wrists curls (15, 12, ? reps) with a finger roll at the end of each rep. handle+collars+7.5 kg

Isometric Hangs
45 seconds 90 deg
45 seconds 120 deg
45 seconds 90 deg
45 seconds 120 deg

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Love this. Also love the height of those walls instead of the new American 25’ tall bouldering gyms.

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2021-10-13

AM: Centurion Walk 30 minutes

A Centurion Walk is what I call a weighted vest walk with 30 lbs as that is something Dan John talked about in one of his podcast episodes as being the weight the Centurions carried from Rome to Egypt.

PM:
Ramp to 2RM at 90kg front squat (PR!)
Decline leg raises and ab-wheel alternating during ramping

4x10 @ 70 kg SSB

Leg extension 3 normal sets, one 6-8-10 drop set
Cable Tate Side Bend (ss: cable pull-through) 3 or 4 sets

An otherwise overactive day. Think I clocked 17k steps at the end of the day, work, errands, social, meetings.

2021-10-14

AM: Bouldering
PM: Hangboarding, -18 kg, 4 sets 30 second hangs, 2 minute rest. 3 finger drag
Wrist curls with finger roll, high reps, 3 sets.

No videos this time, didn’t do anything interesting.

2021-10-15

AM: Just Run Week 3 Day 1

Finally back to running after waiting out my achilles for two weeks.

PM:

Diesel Crew Shoulder Warm-up

Overhead Press (ss: PNF stretch wide split)
8,8,8,7 @ 45

DB Savickas Press 3-4 sets (ss: PNF stretch pike)

Hammer Row (ss: delt machine) 3-4 sets

Prone Trap Raise 3x6 with 6 second contraction (ss: psoas cable thing)

I really feel like my training is missing something. It’s not exactly chasing any goals or well-aligned in enhancing attributes and abilities I care about. It is the way it is to work around nags and injuries and I’m progressing, sure, but I feel like I want to change some things to feel like the time I spent in the gym is more purposefully invested. Stretches were a nice addition along that dimension though!

2021-10-16

Lead for a few hours. Brought lunch to the climbing hall even. Had intentions on being there for an hour or two after lunch but I left after emptying out my thermos.

Cut the session short because at one time my finger went from being bent to being straight very forcefully. It’s hopefully fine. My A4 pulley was giving off some sensations I didn’t particularly enjoy after that happened while just closing my hand on a Theraband ball.

Tried to reason with myself that if I wake up tomorrow and I do indeed feel injured I’ll appreciate it if I packed up my gear and went home, causing no further damage, making recovery as short as possible. For once, I listened to myself.

With luck and good fortune it’s a nothing-event and has no impact on the upcoming training week.

No hangboarding today even though it was supposed to be the final session of long duration hangs. I’ll postpone that until I know for sure that I came away from this unscatched

Hope it’s all good!

Appreciate that @Kris! Seems like it! A bloke shook my hand today and grabbed over the fingers which wasn’t too comfortable (painful really) but other than that I remain optimistic!

2021-10-17

Sumo deadlift, up to 1@130
Conventional deadlift, up to 3@140

High-handle Trap-bar Deadlift
3@148,
3@172 (PR!),
3x10@142

Romanian Deadlift, 3-4 sets of slow eccentrics. Not too heavy.

High-handle Trapbar Deadlift (again!). Drop-set
21@112
10@92
18@72, 12 breaths, 9 reps, 5 breaths, 4 reps

45 Deg Back Extension 3 sets

Lying leg-curl, 5 sets of 40 seconds work with 30s rest inbetween.

DB Shrugs super-setted DB curls

2021-10-18

AM: Just Run Week 3 Day 2

PM:
Military Press & Some BPAs and banded no-moneys
Ramp to 1RM at 55 kg
3x3@49

Abwheel 20,20 during ramp
Abwheel, another 20 during back-off sets

Ring Dips 4 sets AMRAP (ss: Barbell Seal Row w 4 second pause at the top)

Abs drop-set 3 sets
Cable crunch AMRAP
Machine crunch AMRAP
Swiss-ball crunch AMRAP

Mechanical drop-set delts 3x8-10 per exercise
Lateral Raise → Front Raise → Arnold Press


Tried some PNF stretches again but was too cold. Will find a better place for them in my training week.


Feels great to run again after a two-week hiatus from the Achilles tendon sprain I got while doing hill sprints. If anyone reading routinely does hill sprints, did you have an acclimation period and how did that look?

2021-10-19

AM: Bouldering
PM: Final session of the first four week block of a pulley rehab program from the book Climb Injury-free by Dr. Jared Vagy

4x30s, 2m rest, 20mm edge, three finger drag

Then 6 sets of isometric hangs (3 sets of 90 deg and 3 sets of 120 deg alternating) 45 seconds, final set to failure (back muscles)

Additional forearm stuff while hanging out on the couch

Here’s a apprehensive dyno thing from the morning

It’s been a while since I logged. Here’s a bunch of stuff mostly from memory.

2021-10-20

A. Front Squat
Ramp to a 3RM at 90
Back-off 5,4,4 @ 81. Tried getting back under the bar to get 5 on the final set but failed.

Starting to drop my elbows a bit low now. Might be coming up on a plateau or weakness. Probably need some tempo work. Will forge ahead and see what happens. If I need it I’ll do it during my back-off sets and keep the ramp.

B. SSB
4x10 @ 75

C. Leg-extension
3 normal sets, 1 set of 21s.

D. Leg curl
40-30-5 (40 seconds of work, 30 seconds of rest, 5 sets)

Tried some Tate side-bends for obliques but it affects my shoulder in a bad way so cutting that for now.

2 rounds of (9m 45s total)
10 KB Swings (24kg)
2 ring dips
15 swings
3 ring dips
25 swings
5 ring dips
50 swings

I think that’s all I did.

2021-10-21

Decent bouldering session in the AM. No hangboarding PM but forearm rehab stuff. Will upload videos soon.

2021-10-22

AM: Cardio (Just Run Week 3 Day 3)
Surprised by sleet. Need to find ice-spikes or something.

A1. Military Press
8, 7, 8, 6 @ 45. I missed the second set because I tried to be cute and shrug the weight at the top. I miss cleaning the bar, and want to get some trap work “for free” but my elbow isn’t ready for that yet.

A2. Decline Leg-raises (1 leg straight)
4 sets of 7 reps maybe?

B1. Parallette push-ups w 30lbs weight vest
5x8-10

B2. Cable Lat Row
15@21.25/h
12@23.75
10@26.25
AMRAP @ 21.25

C1. Cable Lateral Raise
3 sets

C2. Prone Y-raise
3 sets

D. Multi-press Complex

D1. Seated Muscle Snatch (seated to avoid using the lower body) or Barbell Cuban Press
D2. Behind the Neck Press, Snatch Grip (seated)
D3. Behind the Neck Press, Clean Grip (seated)
D4. Savickas Press (military press seated on the floor with extended legs and no back support)
D5. Bradford Press (standing)
D6. Push Press (standing)

5 reps for each exercise, 3 sets, 90s rest.
2 sets Oly-bar
1 set 10kg bar

2021-10-23

Lead climbing from 9-14. Plenty of routes <7a

No hangboarding, tried a bodyweight hang on a 20mm edge but couldn’t hold it. So will have to take weight off to continue my rehab protocol.

2021-10-24

A. High Handle Trap-bar Deadlift
5 @ 72, 92, 112 kg
3 @ 132, 152 kg
1 @ 172, 177 (PR!)

Back-off sets
3x3 @ 157

Drop-set
30 @ 132
12 @ 112
40 @ 72

Super-setted with abs:
Abwheel
25
25
25
25

Windshield wipers
20
20


B. Single-leg KB RDL
4x12 @ 16 kg

C. Ez-bar curl 1x100
D. Concentration curls 2xAMRAP

2021-10-26

AM: Bouldering, no videos but did a few sends I’m really happy with. Will try and repeat tomorrow!

PM: Continuing my pulley rehab. I have three weeks ahead of me of two grip types (open-hand/half-crimp) with a 2x/weekly frequency.

Hangboarding 20mm edge
4 sets of 7 seconds for three-finger open hand (-16, -12, -16, -16)
4 sets of 7 seconds for four-finger half crimp (2 sets of -24kg, 2 sets of -20kg)

Not sure how to load progress this. I was doing -18 for 30 seconds on the open-hand before and -12 was too aggressive.

Forearm stuff! I’ve reduced the load and do some wrist curls every day now at a very low intensity and that feels a lot better.

And I’ve replaced reps of DB supination with an isometric hold as was implicitly suggested to me,

Thanks @Heth !

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2021-10-27

AM: Centurion Walk 30 minutes

PM:

A. Front Squat (ss: abs)
20 ab-wheel
5 @ 40

8 decline leg raises
5 @ 50

3 @ 60
2 @ 70
1 @ 80
1 @ 90
1 @ 95

3x3 @ 85

Note: I do ab-wheel with my legs pinned nowadays so I warm up my hamstring simultaneously. Makes it slightly easier on the abs though.

However, I’ve gotten so good at activating my abs now that it was too fatiguing (today) to continue doing those sets during the ramping

B. SSB Squat
3x10 @ 80
1x9 @ 80

I’ve moved 4 forward on this, I was aiming for 5 forward / 3 back. I also feel as if I want to add a bench on this one and focus more on sitting back. I’ve been squatting very quad dominantly. But, hey, I missed a rep so back I go!

Did two more sets of ab-wheels here! (60 reps total during the entire training session)

C. Backwards sled-drag
1 sets of 45s-1m of work @ sled+60
3 sets of 45s-1m of work @ sled+80

**D. Cable Pull-through **
4 sets, these weren’t great

Conditioning (Deck of Doom - Faces 10 reps/Aces 11 reps)
25 minutes, 5 cards left

My brain was shot and I ended up doing burpees on two different color cards (initially ~10m) so I didn’t get the “rest” that I’d otherwise get from swings. Confident that the next time I do this I’ll get the entire deck unless I get really unlucky with the shuffle.

2021-10-28

AM:

PM: will hangboard later. Forearm rehab.

1 Like

2021-10-28 cont.

Did not do any hangboarding, fingers felt funky

2021-10-29

AM: Just Run Week 4 Day 2

Mp 4x8@45 (FINALLY!)

Barbell Seal Row 3@50,60,70, 3x5@60
Parallette Push-ups 10/set (50 total) with a weighted vest

after that I have no idea.

2021-10-30

Rest day :open_mouth: Hands felt funky and I skipped climbing.

But I did end up going to a festival and dancing for an hour or two.

2021-10-31

Ramped A. together with sumo deadlift (did a single at 140) and did one leg extended decline leg raises for 4 sets of 8.

A. High Handle Trap-bar Deadlift

2 @ 177 (PR!)

Back-off sets
3x4 @ 157

Drop-set
31 @ 132
15 @ 112
15@ 92
26@72

B1. Single-leg KB RDL
4x12 @ 16 kg

B2. Split Squat
4x?

C. Shrugs 4x6-8
D. Walking Lunges 100

2021-11-01

AM: Just Run Week 4 Day 3

PM:
MP
3 @ 50
3x5 @ 45

BB Seal Row, ramp to 3 @ 70, then 3x5 @ 60
Dips 5 sets of AMRAP

DB Row 3x7 (12s pause, 10s pause, … 2s pause, no pause in the contracted position)
BTN Press 3x10

Reverse EZ-bar curls supersetted with long handle tricep pushdowns

2021-11-02

AM: Bouldering, felt good, solid

PM: Hangboarding

Hangboarding 20mm edge
4 sets of 7 seconds for three-finger open hand (-14 kg)
4 sets of 7 seconds for four-finger half crimp (-20kg)

2021-11-03 Squat Focus

AM: Centurion Walk 40 minutes

PM:

A. Front Squat (ss: abs 23, 16, 13 ab-wheel)
5 @ 40
5 @ 50
3 @ 60
3 @ 70
2 @ 85
2 @ 95 (PR!)
3x4 @ 85

B. SSB Squat to 16 inch box
4x10 @ 65

did some more ab-wheels here with legs pinned and doing essentially a nordic regression. Calves kept cramping. Can’t quite figure out why, maybe because I’m pushing my calves so hard into the “bar”.

C. Backwards sled-drag
4 sets of 1m of work @ sled+85

D. Sled pushes
4 sets of 1m of work @ sled+35

Tried long full strides focusing on glute contraction but felt it mostly in my calves. Any tips?

Conditioning
1-2-3-…-10-9-…-2-1 push-up ladder. Forgot to time it. Parallettes.

2021-11-04

AM: Bouldering

Not my best send on this one (red - below :arrow_down: ). My camera-app kept crashing so I did it like 5 or 6 times…

PM:
4 sets of 7 seconds for three-finger open hand (-14 kg)
4 sets of 7 seconds for four-finger half crimp (-20kg)

2021-11-05

AM: Just Run Week 5 Day 1

PM:
Diesel Shoulder Crew Warm-up
Log Press 5,4,5,5 @ 50kg

Also, band pull-aparts 50 reps straight. Banded Y-raises.

Centurion Push-ups 5 sets of 12
BB Seal Row, did 1 good rep at 80 (and one sloppy). Then 3 sets of 5ish reps at 70. Feel like this exercise is a good candidate for tempo work

Mixed BTN Presses with seated close-grip overhead presses. Trying to find new supplemental exercises that target my weaknesses.
Front Lever Work (tuck raises)

Shrugs and back extensions

2021-11-06

Bouldering competition. Did not make it to the finals. That’s not really realistic when I still have to climb mostly on straight arms because of my elbow. I did walk away with some thoughts on how to adjust my bouldering training. I just have to go harder and fail more.

The night before a friend of mine had some festivities to attend so I offered to hang-out with her ---- for simplicity I’ll label it as — “boyfriend”. Me and him played chess, and had a really good go at things. Open, honest, guy. I like him. Sadly, my friend started sending texts that had him worried that she’d had too much to drink so I offered to come along and pick her up.

She was way too drunk for her own good. She’s just had knee surgery but she was too inebriated to feel pain, as I would note later that night when she spilled scalding hot tea on her feet without even reacting. Hopefully the exoskeleton around her leg kept the knee safe as she stumbled about but, still.

It ended up being a late night, playing a support character to both individuals over text messages. I also don’t really know the guy well enough, so I was worried, I don’t know how he deals with anger/disappointment and I’ve heard enough horror stories to keep checking up on my friend until way into the night.

Overall, I wasn’t in a good space to be competing but wanted to show up and be part of the community regardless. Or at least try to.

I did however get a t-shirt and guess what, the print is my design : )

2021-11-07

A. High Handle Trap-bar Deadlift

Deadlift simul-ramp.
Conventional/Trap-bar (I hate that the bar weighs 22kg)
60/72, 5/10 reps, also sumo 5 reps
80/92, 5/5
100/112, 3/5, also sumo 3 reps
120/132, 3/3

Trap-bar:
3 @ 177 (PR!)

Back-off sets
3x5 @ 157

No Drop-set today, too tired. See yesterday. Also, this simul-ramp is only okay on days when I’m fire. I feel as if a continuous ramp (conventional → sumo → trap-bar) would be better. Why am I doing it? So I can do conventional pain-free at some point in the future.

B. RDLs slow ones for an adequate number of sets
C. Hip-thrust going for a glute pump.

Conditioning 3 rounds
Sumo deadlift 10 reps w 60kg
One “lap” of (I should measure this out in paces)

  • Bear Walk
  • Gator Walk
  • Crab Crawl

2021-11-08

AM: Just Run Week 5 Day 2

PM:
MP, a single at 52. I don’t think that is an all-time PR TBH. but, in reference to recent periods it sure is. I feel like a winner
3x3 @ 47
ss: BB seal row at 60&50 going for a 6 second eccentric. Didn’t quite like tempo work on this movement to be frank. Not without a ramp beforehand at least. Wasn’t feeling it until maybe the final set.

Dips 8,7,6,6,7 (final was a bonus set after some extra rest)
ss: hammer row, 10 @ 35/h, 50/h, 60/h, then one set with paused reps at 50kg/h.

Then I tried to do some handstand stuff, but wasn’t feeling it. Tried some arm stuff, same. Thought about going home. Ended up doing traps and face pulls.

2021-11-09

AM: Bouldering
PM: Hangboarding 20mm edge
4 sets of 7 seconds for three-finger open hand (-12 kg)
4 sets of 7 seconds for four-finger half crimp (-18.5kg) (didn’t have any clean 1kgs around)

2021-11-10

AM: Centurion Walk 40 minutes

PM:

A. Front Squat (ss: abs 29, 12, 9 ab-wheel)
5 @ 40
5 @ 50
3 @ 60
3 @ 70
3 @ 85
2 @ 95 (failed rep 3)

Did a bunch of Zerchers at various weights as back-off. Not too worried about missing this. Had a sense that I’d not be able to progress this workout and just wanted to check if my intuition was on point. Will try again next week before considering adjustments (5 forward/3 back)

B. SSB Squat to 16 inch box
4x10 @ 70

C. Backwards sled-drag
2 sets of double distance from last time @ sled+80 and sled + 105

D. Sled pushes
2 sets of 1m of work @ sled+30

I can’t for the life of me make this hit the glutes

E. Hip Thrusts
10, 12, 15 @ 80. Became a weird ramp, more reps on each set

Conditioning
2 rounds
10 swings
2 dips
15 swings
3 dips
25 swings
5 dips
50 swings

Unsure of the exact time but beat my previous. 9:18 I think. I’ll revisit and edit if necessary

2021-11-11

AM: Bouldering
PM:
Hangboarding 20mm edge
1 set of 7 seconds for three-finger open hand (-2.5kg)
3 sets of 7 seconds for three-finger open hand (-12.5 kg)
4 sets of 7 seconds for four-finger half crimp (-17.5kg)

Did these at the climbing hall today and was too distracted to remember to attach a 10. It hurt, a bit, but I was okay to lead after. Hurt for about 3 routes and then no pain. Not smart, but I’m lucky.

Also cool that I can almost hang at my bodyweight and almost pain-free.

2hrs of very chill lead climbing just to socialise.

Talked to my place of employment today that I’m not getting the help I need here, as I’ve yet again been placed in year long queue for further evaluation (mental health stuff). So, I’ve applied to study in a bigger city (did this months ago), I’ll try and work part-time to make ends meet. They were willing to help out and give me some liberties with regards to being remote full-time if that’s necessary.

Time to start looking for apartments…