Where to climb first 10 days of July 2022

Hi Everyone,

I am dropping my son off for skate camp in central PA around July 2 and picking him up about 10 days later. So I have 10 days to climb! I´m looking for a bouldering area recommendation. I can always hop on a plane and go somewhere, but as I have to rent a car in the North East, if there was something within a day´s drive, that would be preferable. I will need to rent some pads and will likely be climbing alone if that weighs into the decision. Is a place like Rock Town to hot even in the early mornings? All suggestions welcome.

Thanks!

JR

I’d say Squamish, but that might be a little far… and last July was VERY hot!

Normally the forest is cool in the morning and evening and you can still find good conditions through the summer.

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July in PA is pretty rough if you’re trying to climb. Your best option within 1-2 hours of driving is probably the DWS on the susquehanna river near Pequea that most people would call the YMCA wall. Doesn’t look like it’s on MP, and this is the only written information I could find on it (which isn’t actually even the same wall, but it’s something) Rock Climbing in Susquehanna River, Muddy Run, South Central PA

I’ve had good luck here in the summer as well because it’s quite shaded: Rock Climbing in The Library, Northeast Ridges and Valleys

Honestly your best option is probably to go down to the New or maybe somewhere up in the Adirondacks

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Smugglers notch is awesome and bouldering in the summer can be relatively doable. 8 hrs to central PA might be a big heinous though. Maybe Wyoming at high elevation?

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Honestly I’d recommend the New River Gorge as well. Could also try Gunks bouldering, I’ve gone there in mid-june before. It’s not send temps or anything, but still fun.

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The New seems like the most recommended. It does seem to be slightly cooler than other options. I will be on a three week trip and will have to work so I´ll need wifi. Stone Fort would be ideal in this regard, but it seems like it is a full 10 degrees warmer on average there. Any beta on places to stay near the New appreciated as well.

JR

Like most places mentioned, the New will be pretty hot and humid in July. It’s not ideal climbing conditions–especially bouldering. Although I love the New, I’d also consider going north if I were you. Pawtuckaway? Adirondacks? You might find slightly cooler temps that direction. That said, you’ll likely still have a great time at the New if you’re not looking to send anything hard.

If you do end up heading this way, some quick beta…

There are plenty of camping options and AirBnbs. Both the guidebook and mountain project do a great job listing options.

There is some DWS at Summersville Lake which is great in the summer. Bouldering at Meadow Top is classic, easy without a spotter, and can be shady. There are countless other bouldering options. Get the guidebook or the 27crags app (most up-to-date).

Alex, thanks for the Beta on the New. I´m interested exclusively in bouldering. Which guidebook do you recommend?

I have had poor experiences with the 27 Crags app at other crags in the past. On the other hand the Little Cottonwood Canyon App is killer. Have you used the app for the New? Is there reception at the boulders? Thanks again!

Jim

There is really only one bouldering guidebook for the new: New River Gorge Bouldering Guide - Waterstone : Waterstone

Most of the major/classic areas are in the book. The app is great and is most helpful for some of the newly-developed areas which aren’t in the book.

As far as cell service, it’s a bit hit or miss depending on which area you’re at. When you’re not climbing though there is high-speed cell service in town (Fayetteville). Also, some of the campgrounds and coffee shops around town have wifi.

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Thanks Alex. Sounds like the App is the way to go. Coming from Costa Rica, I´m used to climbing in 80+ temps. I´ll just get out early and get in a few hours of climbing before the heat of the day is on me. As I´m flying in / out of NYC, I´m still investigating climbing in NE, but I also don´t mind visiting the New and Little Rock City to scout for future trips.

Where do you recommend renting a pad in Fayetteville?

Great! You can rent pads at Waterstone (local gear shop, linked in my message above). Have fun!